brucegodlesky - Tue 23 Jan 2018 15:34:12 #0
What kinda hammer Darrell?
My Fairbanks is generally out of commission this time of year. Too much frost heave. Have to rely on the hydraulic press or Armstrong powewr :-)
Keep tryin' to talk myself into a hammer rebuild and move the drive wheel to the rear so I can mount a motor on the back of the frame.
Weather has moderated so looks like some forge time before long. Saw a lil video MS Ray Kirk did on forging small intregal blades. Have to give it a try befor I forget how.....
Darrell - Tue 23 Jan 2018 23:18:25 #0
I have an air hammer that was a basic Kinyon style.
The shuttle valve O-rings kept going bad. That was a bit expensive counting the shipping.
I am replacing that valve with a hydraulic valve. Right now I am working on some
prototype linkage that I hope will be more like a Steam hammer.
Had the mill up and running today and made a couple of parts for the hammer.
Kind of slow going learning the new mill software and the CAD/CAM program.
Buck Brown - Wed 24 Jan 2018 09:40:09 #0
Glad to hear your hammer project is coming along. The only time I was around a power hammer was at Robb Gunter's school. It was a Little Giant. Sid Suedmeier was there too. He had just purchased the Little Giant company.
Jeremy K - Wed 24 Jan 2018 15:18:51 #0
Darrel - o-rings
Darrell - Do you have an inline oiler on your air hammer - I put a "T" in the piping and unplug the "T" and a few drops of oil and re-plug the "T" then hammer away. - no problems since.
Jeff Reinhardt - Wed 24 Jan 2018 16:09:59 #0
Darrell, most hydraulic valves are lapped spool design, IE they have a spool that is lapped into the bore. They depend on the viscosity of the oil to slow leakage across the lands of the spool to an acceptable level. I fear you will not be happy with the air leakage in this type valve. One of the items that is usually changed in a steam hammer that is being modified to air is to refit the valves with seals. As Jeremy notes oil is pretty essential to the seal life in pneumatic items. Also the RIGHT oil. Oils like Marvel Mystery Oil and others of the Patent Medicine type will often degrade seals faster then no oil. A really good choice for seal life is ATF. Works well and does not hurt seals. Is very stable in viscosity vs temp as well. The antiwear package in ATF works well in cylinders as well. In a previous century, while working at a major pneumatic valve and cylinder makers lab I got to test seals against various oils. Marvel Mystery oil would turn regular Nitrile seals to mush overnight. Several of the "airline oils" were little better. Hydraulic oil in low viscosity say 10 weight was quite good as was ATF.
Darrell - Wed 24 Jan 2018 21:04:23 #0
I have an in-line oiler that I am using 10 weight hydraulic oil.
The original shuttle valve spool lasted a long time, but the new thin ones hardly lasted a month.
I know the hydraulic valve that I'm using is new, but I am detecting no air leakage at this time.
At $70 plus and shipping and waiting for the shuttles it won't take long to pay for the hydraulic valve.
What would happen is if the hammer sat for a couple of days the shuttle would stick in place
and I would have to take the end off and tap the shuttle in both directions and free it up.
Two or three times of that and those thin seals that they used to replace O-rings were shot.
Jeff Reinhardt - Thu 25 Jan 2018 15:57:58 #0
Darrell, sounds like if the hydraulic valve does not work, you need to change brand/style of valve.If that occurs let me know, I can advise on some very bullet proof valves.
Joe Rollings - Thu 01 Feb 2018 11:28:16 #0
I inherited a bunch of stuff a couple of years ago, and have been slowly selling it off a bit at a time, and nobody stepped up for the old ditch witch trencher, so I had me a plan to remove the hydrostatic tranny and use it to build the ultimate finely controlled power hammer.
Just about the time I was getting ready to scrap it out, somebody called and wants to buy it, but them I figured out there is another of the trannys in an old wheel horse tractor I can use.
Seems like a perfect solution to me for absolute control. The one I built with a slipping belt was not controllable by me, at least.
Seems like I plan more than I build these days, but I'm not much for chilly weather, even chilly weather that would make you guys from cold country put on your swim trunks and go sun bathing......Joe
Jeff Reinhardt - Thu 01 Feb 2018 16:28:59 #0
Joe Rollings, a friend of mine built a guided helve with a hydro tranny and it was not good. the tranny was loud and the hammer did not perform well. When he saw my hammer with a tire clutch he rebuilt his and is much happier with the hammer now.
I used the rear hub bearing assembly from a 1990 Gran Caravan, with the spare tire from same. For the pivot I used the center from a wheel off the same. That way I could weld the pivot and not have to touch the compact spare wheel with any welding. Just bolted the center on over top the spare using the lug nuts. Been running that for years.
Chuck - Thu 01 Feb 2018 23:19:28 #0
I wish I had seen RAY CLONTZ's "Piddler" hammer before I built mine.
Ray is damn near a genius developing tools and jigs. He is great place to get advice.
I have my "50" running on flat dies and my home built is running for on fullering dies.
I am now about through the figuring stage of building a 37 ton splitter/press. Got all the steel, 17 HP vertical motor, tank and axle.--need cylinder, control, hydraulic motor. Some pretty weather. Grin
Loren T - Fri 02 Feb 2018 11:04:12 #0
My wife, who is a quilter, says that quilters abound in UFO's. Seems like we all have a bunch of those!!
UFO= Unfinished Object.
Alex Ivey - Fri 02 Feb 2018 16:18:01 #0
Catching up on my reading, did notice Toms post couple of weeks back about the silence, thanks Tom as it did wake everybody up. I'm usually silent just mostly a reader, not checking the post often as there's been a lot on our plate here to occupy our time, wife diagnosed with uterine cancer back in early November, had operation Nov. 30, going through chemo now and radiation later, stage was 1B so that was good news. She's a tough girl, is taking it well and with all the prayers we're getting I'm sure all will turn out ok. Someone else may have mentioned it but I thank you all for posting as I enjoy reading (Tom C, Bruce, Chuck, Bert, Loren, Jeff. Joe, Gavainh, Buck, Jeremy and anyone I left out)and special thanks to you Darrell for hosting.
Our NM Artist Blacksmiths Assoc. meeting will be at Ward Brenigar's shop in Santa Fe tomorrow Feb 3 and anyone is invited to attend as guest are always welcomed. Directions can be found on NMABA's website, if interested just look it up on the ABANA site under affilites. Ward will be doing a demo for us, his last since he is retiring and will be selling most of his shop equipment that will be identified at the meeting. I posted a photo of a letter opener with slant ladder pattern mokume scales I made for iron in the hat, pattern not aged enough yet to see in the photo. LXIV,
Joe Rollings - Fri 02 Feb 2018 20:36:31 #0
Prayers up for your wife, Alex, and
very cool letter opener. Any hints on the Mokume making? Do they need to be fluxed?
I bet you could sell jewelry made from it. Not me, though. I figured out years ago I shouldn't try to sell anything without understanding why people buy it, and that applies to jewelry in spades...Joe
Joe Rollings - Fri 02 Feb 2018 20:48:32 #0
and while I am rambling.....
Has anybody ever built a power hammer with an air pressure based spring? You gotta understand that these days when I start building a machine it is rarely because I really honestly need it, but because I really want to build it. Lucked out and got to build a big bandsaw for a client a few months ago, but I'm getting the fever again and no client handy, so I may have to build something and either use it, sell it, or make it part of the estate sale, which will give my executor another reason to tear his hair out.... :)
Anyhow, I am getting ready to scrap out the front and rear axle assemblys from an old dump truck for the springs and such (leaf springs look like about 4"x 1/2") and I keep looking at those old air brake pots. You can get the new pancakes for them and using one for a spring in a mechanical hammer would allow one to adjust the spring pressure to find the sweet spot.
On second thought, not enough stroke. Must be good for something, though. Looks like a 10" pot would develop around 7500 pounds of push. Maybe an air operated vise.....Joe
bruce godlesky - Sat 03 Feb 2018 07:42:12 #0
lotsa interesting stuff here lately.
Me? I'm kinda hibernating....... That dang roadpig got everyone in a tizzy over 6 more weeks of this stuff. I saw him in the garden just before Thanksgiving and regret I didn't make him yote bait then........
This is good forging weather:-)May get bout soon and fire up. Have a run of hawks planned. That should keep me busy for a month or so.....The pattern welded billets are "seasoning" in the open air HA!
Jeff Reinhardt - Sat 03 Feb 2018 07:49:04 #0
air brake pots
Joe Rollings, air brake pots would make a great edge gluing table for wood. used in cabinet shops all the time. edge the wood, glue, lay in table, turn on the air to hold the wood edges together. They usually have a crank adjustable back stop for different width glue ups.
When I worked at VOGT we had about 70 or so air vises in 2 sizes. looked like a regular bench vise, but the back extended out for a diaphragm/spring set up similar to an air pot. the jaw screw threaded into the diaphragm center so the gross adjustments were made with the screw and the finally travel for production clamping was by applying air. they were set up to only travel maybe a 1/2", more for safety then anything. Still had a guy stumble and trip and stomp the treadle as he grabbed the vise jaw to stop from falling. Cost him most of his thumb and first finger. Of course a safety treadle with cover would have prevented that.
Mike B - Sun 04 Feb 2018 07:49:38 #0
Even if you had enough travel, air springs would not be efficient for a power hammer. When the air compresses, it heats up. Some of that heat goes into heating the body of the spring rather than in helping it extend again. Perhaps that would be manageable if there were other advantages, but it's an issue you don't have with mechanical springs.
This effect is actually a plus on vehicles -- which already have shock absorbers specifically designed to convert some of the motion into heat.
Joe Rollings - Sun 04 Feb 2018 20:29:51 #0
Only possible advantage I saw was the adjustability and ability to fine tune.
Compression only heats air because of locating more heat molecules in less space, aside from very small increase because of friction. Without constantly increasing pressure, heat should not build up after initial charge of compressed air is added, as I see it.....Joe
Mike B - Mon 05 Feb 2018 19:14:06 #0
If you're using air as a spring, it heats up as it is compressed on each stroke. It the cools off again when the air expands. In itself this wouldn't be an issue. The air would heat as it was compressed, increasing the pressure and requiring the motor to work harder to compress the spring. But that extra pressure would help extend the spring again. The two strokes would be mirror images, and nothing would be lost.
However, some of heat is lost to the walls of the spring. If you compressed the spring in the morning, you'd have to fight against the increasing pressure as you compressed it. If you then let it expand in the evening, the air inside would have decreased to room temperature, and you'd get less push out of the spring than you put into it.
Obviously the air in the spring isn't going to cool to room temperature on each stroke of the hammer. But it will heat up on each stroke, and some of the heat will go to heating the walls of the spring and the air around it. That lost heat represents energy you put into the spring and won't get back out of it (except to help heat your shop).
The inefficiency isn't that big a deal in itself -- you can just throw a bigger motor on the hammer.
It's also possible the spring would overheat. I don't know how likely that is, but the hammer would exercise the spring more than a truck would (except maybe on the worst washboard road).
Also, the pressure in the spring would be lower when you first started the hammer, since the suck walls would be cold and therefore suck the most heat out of the air. As the walls heated up, the rate of heat loss would drop, and the air pressure would increase. Again, I don't know how significant this is. You might be able to manage it by bleeding a little air out of the spring as it heated up.
I hadn't thought about being able to fine tune the spring. That might make it all worthwhile. On the other hand the pressure increase as you ran the hammer might drive you nuts.
Hopefully someone will build one and tell us.
Alex Ivey - Tue 06 Feb 2018 00:28:43 #0
Joe, I'm not an expert on forging mokume, so far I've only used quarters and fifty pieces, have found that the newer quarters seem to weld up better than old ones. using a stack of 16 I flatten them by hitting with a treadle hammer to take some of raised defination out, clamp them evenly with a small "C" clamp style visegrip, wrap the stack with just enough tape to hold them in place then clamp them between 2 pieces of 3/16 x 2 inch flat mild steel bar. I'm using a 4 in. and a 5 in. long bar with holes drilled 3 in. apart for 1/4 in. bolts to secure the coins. Just make sure the bolts clear your flat dies when pressing them to weld. I'm using the press in the photo I posted a while back. I heat up the coins and clamp until the whole thing is all the same color as the interior of the forge taking care not to overheat which will melt the nickle, you will know when that happens and when I see little flicker on the coins I go to the press and press them down to about 1/2 the original thickness, pop them from the clamp and then they can now be heated to a red heat not quite as hot done to weld them and hammer forged to about any shape. No flux is needed and the tape will burn off no matter what kind is used, I use masking tape. The number of coins does not have to be 16, I've done 22, could be even less. I've also welded the billits pairs. I smooth the surfaces on the belt sander and welded up the pairs. You can keep stacking them to make a billit as big as you want. I use a 1 inch thick fire brick in the gas forge so if I do a melt down I don't have a mess on the forge floor. I did one that ended up with 64 quarters. Sorry about the long explanation but hope it is helpfull.
Joe, I still have a HP DOT cylinder for you. LXIV, .
Alex Ivey - Sat 10 Feb 2018 11:30:46 #0
Didn't mean to imply that I melted 64 quarters. The 64 quarter billit is not finished with pattern yet, will do later when I can get back in the shop. Had cataract removal surgery on both eyes Wed. and Thurs so have to take it easy with the eyes for a while.
Am registered for the Abana Conf. and hotel in Richmond so hope to see some from the forum, probably Tom C. for sure. LXIV,
Chuck - Sun 11 Feb 2018 15:02:03 #0
ALEX-- I hope your wife is faring better. Pretty tough old coot to have both eyes worked over at the same time. Hope this is 100% successful.
While waiting for my eye to improve.--Wet Macular Degeneration.
I am looking for a good stout cylinder 4X24--or bigger, control valve. I am going to build a splitter. Later I will make some blocks and a slide for the cylinder end to convert it to a press.
Hoping to find a cylinder stout enough for a 30 ton press. A new cylinder this big is too expensive too play with on my ever reducing SS check.
I plan buy a 16 GPM pump.
I have a Muncie clutched pump, but to get the RPMs to get the GPMs is tooo much for my 17 horse B & S engine.
I have an old Dennison pump. It won't put of the GPM that I will need.
The neietos will get more use than I will, but would like to have a press to use for a while.
Hope everyone skips the flu.
Loren T - Mon 12 Feb 2018 08:56:28 #0
I have been lucky and haven't needed it done, but my wife had both done about a week apart 6 or 7 years ago. She had a choice of lenses, basic for no extra charge, medium for $800 each, or super-duper computer type for $3-4000 each. Went with basic. Had worn glasses for her entire life. Now has 20-20. Needs to wear readers is all. Total time for surgery was about 2 hours from check in to check out. Actual surgery was 7 or 8 minutes.
bruce godlesky - Thu 15 Feb 2018 19:04:02 #0
Cambria Works Blacksmith shop
I heard today that smithing classes will be held soon at the Cambria Works Blacksmith shop in Johnstown Pa.
Been a long time coming.
Joe Rollings - Fri 16 Feb 2018 17:22:09 #0
Joe Rollings - Fri 16 Feb 2018 17:29:42 #0
Sorry 'bout that
Had trouble getting through the first time with the new computer. I want to encourage everybody contemplating eye surgery to get the best doc recommendation possible from somebody who knows what they are talking about. I didn't, and it was a big mistake.
New lens slipped (they said), legally blind in one eye for months, detached retina, repairs accomplished by better docs, but they could only do so much. Eye is now 20/50 and going downhill pretty fast. On top of that, she could not get it numbed, and I could feel every thing she did for over two hours BIG TIME. Even when she poured water in it it felt like battery acid.
Not trying to scare anybody out of doing it, just make sure your guy or gal is up to the job, because not all of them are.....Joe
Joe Rollings - Sun 18 Feb 2018 23:05:07 #0
Hoping he is still around somewhere. Was a valuable contributor to the forum and maybe the only guy who shared a knowledge of some of my relatives who made the team decades ago. Nice guy, too.
Love to here from you, Bob....Joe
Buck Brown - Wed 21 Feb 2018 10:15:40 #0
Well, we finally are getting some wintry weather. Been real nice 'till lately. It's 14* here this morning and still very dry.
I had cataracts done a few months ago and sure am glad there were no problems.
I now have 20/20 in both eyes and just need 2x cheaters to read.
I have astigmatism in my right eye, so that took a special lens, unless I wanted to wear glasses full time. The insurance would only pay for a standard lens. They said the better lens was "cosmetic"! Anyway, $850.00 was well worth it to get 20/20 vision.
Sure hope everyone can dodge the flu. Linda and I have been lucky so far.
Chuck - Wed 21 Feb 2018 23:29:20 #0
Splitter press build
We have been gathering parts and metal. All we like now is the cylinder. May do a separate guillotine build for the press. Scared of the long splitter cylinder.
I found and old cattle hydraulic chute. Every thing seems to work on it. Plenty of controls, pump, good hoses, reservoir, filer housing. Single phase 3HP 1750 RPM motor. It will bring enough to pay for the rest.
I am yet to know what the GPM is going to be on the 40 series pump with a 9.5 BS engine.
If it is as it appears to be a Cross 40 D 12 it will be just right. Can't tell for sure what the 12 means on the pump.
We have the metal will just have figure the gussets. The press has to be safe. Going to shield the clevis and rod part above the top die.
Got some coal from Aquilar, Colo. Propane is too high here. Just one supplier.
Skiff of snow today--about a half inch--dry snow.
Ready for spring planting of garden.
Eye is no better but I can tell which woman to take home from church(without feeling) Grin.
Blessings to all.
Tom C - Thu 22 Feb 2018 21:32:45 #0
We've been watching the Olympics. Tonight, one of the speed skater's blades broke & he had to have it replaced. That got me to thinking that they must be some sort of alloy steel. Any idea what kind? Like a knife, you'd want it to hold an edge but not be too brittle. Maybe A2? D-2 would be too hard to sharpen I suppose.
I now have the doors on my '57 Chevy project. The front clip is next.
Alex Ivey - Fri 23 Feb 2018 01:29:12 #0
Joe, sorry to hear about your I guess you would say bad eye surgery. Had mine done at Pacific Cataract And Laser Institute in Albuq. by Dr Robert Ford who has done over 200,000 cataract surgery's. So far 2 weeks after the surgery both eyes are doing great. My regular eye Dr did the 1 week post op and says I will no longer need glasses, only readers. My drivers lic. had me requiring glasses to drive and that restriction will go away.
I read somewhere in the past about what is referred to as glass blowers cataract's caused by looking at the fire in gas forges and possibly the bright fire in a coal forge. The recomendation is to wear didymium safety glasses. Does anyone have any experience with them. LXIV,
Jeff Reinhardt - Fri 23 Feb 2018 17:58:14 #0
Alex Ivey the glass blower lens are the wrong filter for IR from steel. You need a plain green shade 3 or 4 or 5 for steel at forging temp. The make nice flip up shade 4's for safety glasses. For what its worth poly-carbonate lens as used in most safety glasses are a natural IR filter. Not sure right wavelength but the do filter even when clear.
Joe Rollings - Fri 23 Feb 2018 21:45:40 #0
My eye doc wrote me a scrip for a single permanently midrange tinted lens for my bad eye because when they screwed it up they also stopped the iris's ability to open and close.
People who made the glasses almost refused to make them that way, but it is a really big help to kill the glare in that eye. I have to have the same argument every time I go back for new lenses, but it is worth it....Joe
Tom C - Sat 24 Feb 2018 21:27:04 #0
Skate blade metal
440 C, 420HC, 1085 is what Paramount skates' blades are made from.
Chuck - Sat 24 Feb 2018 23:58:28 #0
Dry weather--skate steel.
This ole country is drying out. they are calling for 5% to 12% humidity Tomrrow and Monday with a strong wind. Still have a lot of fodder for fires. I hope everyone is on the ball, watches what is happening around them.
There are ten or twelve places along the highway between here and Amarillo where they have caught road fires before they got out of hand. --About 90 miles. Blessings that they were caught before they really got to rolling.
TOM C. --I started to put up a guess--something between 1075 and 1095. These steels can be drawn back to a strong(not brittle) tough blade but still hold an edge.
Good friend of mine thinks his Macular Degeneration in both eyes was caused by quick darkening welding hoods. He was hard facing drill bits for a couple of years before it showed up. He was 64 when he first noticed it.
Forging steel could cause that. I have seen a couple of guys spot welding with a wire welder, no glasses or hood.
Mine was caused by sympathy pains for my wife. Grin
Joe Rollings - Sun 25 Feb 2018 09:36:42 #0
I had been flame hardening silversmith stamps for years and years, staring into the fire to judge the color, and all of a sudden I was night blind REALLY bad. I'm sure it did not happen overnight but I just noticed it overnight.....Joe
brucegodlesky - Mon 26 Feb 2018 08:37:44 #0
Tom C that a pretty wide range of steel!
it's all in the heat-treat!
We're finally dryin' out here in w Pa. Even have blue sky out there this morning!
Headed off to the shop to make tomahawks. Billets been settin' there since January. Hope I remember how......:-)
Tom C - Mon 26 Feb 2018 11:56:38 #0
Skate blade steels
The company makes various blades with the 440 C being the expensive one & the 1085 for the budget minded. I thought it interesting that they used similar alloys to what bladesmiths use.
brucegodlesky - Mon 26 Feb 2018 18:21:44 #0
well, skates are a blade....:-)
420hc is a middle of the road carbon ss. IMO doesn't make much of a knife blade, a little bit better than kitchen cutlery steel. Does take a nice shine tho.hehehe
It goes without saying, the other 2 are old standbys in the knife bidness, easy to work and heat treat.
RWCase and Queen both use 420hc for their shiney knives. It's made right here in the Allegheny River valley by ATI.
Joe Rollings - Fri 02 Mar 2018 22:44:20 #0
I have a track loader that is a parts machine, and noticed a weight on the back of it that prob'ly weighs in at 1000 pounds. Has the Allis Chalmers insignia on it and has been welded onto 1" plate strips, I think with an arc welder. Stroked it a couple of times with a 12 pound doublejack and it dented nicely.
I would like to use it as an anvil for a power hammer, but have trouble believing that it is steel. Cast iron would be MUCH cheaper for weights.
The welds might be older than me, and none of them are cracked. Any wisdom out there?
I just bought a 10" I beam with a 5/8" web, 12 feet long, so I could fashion an anvil without the tractor weight if required, but if I can use it I want to.....Joe
Jeff Reinhardt - Sat 03 Mar 2018 07:16:39 #0
Joe, may be cast steel. easier to weld, and tougher, so may have been the choice in the allis foundrey as it would be less likely to break and crack in frame parts. try grinding, cast steel will throw the regular long stream of sparks and cast iron will be oranger and shorter and not branch as much.
Buck Brown - Sat 03 Mar 2018 11:06:56 #0
I agree with Jeff that it's probably cast steel Cast iron will arc weld with special rod, but it has a nasty habit of not staying welded. When the weld fails, it pulls a rut out of the cast iron. Peening the bead after welding helps
Joe Rollings - Sat 03 Mar 2018 22:21:10 #0
I was trying to figure how to get a grinder to it for a spark test, and then figured out I have an air grinder that will run off of the co2 tank I use for airing up tires, so tomorrow I will go spark test it.
Those old crawler tractors are from the 40's and 50's right after the war, so maybe lots of scrap steel around to cast. I know they threw enough of it away overseas.
I built one power hammer before, but was never very happy with it's control and sold it at a decent profit. This time I have the time and material to make a good one if I am smart enough.
I dunno if it has been done before or not, but I am going to build it with the crossed leaf spring linkage and a blue engine for power. Those blue engines have a remarkably good governor for speed control, and that way no electricity or compressed air will be required. I will construct a really effective muffler to make it comfortable to be around.
Will need to figure out how to match the hammer weight with the size of the leaf spring bundle, amongst other things.....Joe
Chuck - Sat 03 Mar 2018 23:25:38 #0
JOE- the more you can put under the hammer the better.
700 pounds and up would be where I would shoot on another hammer build.- 10 to 1 ratio.
Three or four leaf--plus 30", with a 60 pound total throw weight. This design kind of mimics a Little Giant.
4' X 4' packed caliche or concrete under it.
The Piddler--Ray Clontz has a good design on the spare tire hammer.
Got a good report on the Prostrate deal. PSA number was .47. Sounds good.
Alex Ivey - Sun 04 Mar 2018 15:31:46 #0
Frank, has parkinson's and can't do any smithing. I found out yesterday that he's in some type of rehab and there is a GoFundMe to raise money to make his place handicap accessible when he goes home. I don't know all of the details about the situation but if anyone wishes to make a donation do a search for (gofundme for Frank Turley) and it will pop up. I will be suggesting that our guild New Mexico Artist Blacksmiths Association make a sizeable donation . Frank has giving so much to the smithing community over the years, i'ts sad to see him in this condition. LXIV,
Joe Rollings - Thu 08 Mar 2018 22:58:32 #0
First time I read your previous post I missed the decimal point in your prostate number. Went back and looked again and was much relieved. Not the sort of things we were comparing with others in our youth, but times change, for sure.
Tomorrow I will go down and pull off the tractor weight and start sawing off the I beam sections to weld together for a base.
I am a bit paranoid about the spring for the DuPont linkage on the hammer. Seems like it should be sensitive to being either too strong or too weak. Anybody ever tried an adjustable air spring? I have plenty of leaf and coil spring sections so I will not voluntarily spend money if it is not needed, but it looks like it would be easy to make a mistake in that department.
So far I am calculating the anvil at 1000 pounds and the base at nearly 400 pounds. I can cut the hammer stock at any length up to 180 pounds.
NO limiting factors except, as usual, my own stupidity. Easier back when I could plead poverty as an excuse.... :) .......Joe
Joe Rollings - Sat 10 Mar 2018 21:36:58 #0
studied the problem a bit and I can see how to move the pivot points and change the levers around to alter the work load of the spring. Got a couple of rear coils out of an old Geo Metro today and will just have to work up all of the parts until they do the job properly.
Even at my age, one sometimes forgets that the final answers come from the workbench, NOT the cad drawing......Joe
Jeff Reinhardt - Mon 12 Mar 2018 17:01:23 #0
Joe Rollings, I do my best engineering at the bench :)
Brian C. - Fri 16 Mar 2018 15:26:37 #0
Chuck, good news on your PSA! Mine was .15, the best ever. Early detection and treatment is the key. Get yourselves checked gentlemen.
Loren T - Sat 17 Mar 2018 07:09:02 #0
This article addresses this test. You Decide!
Brian C. - Mon 19 Mar 2018 16:04:57 #0
Loren T., that is not new info. My PSA numbers had been erratic since my early 50's. It shot up and red flagged my cancer. It would have been undetected without the PSA and subsequent biopsy. As it was it was caught early and I was able to be treated with radiation and without surgery or chemo. YMMV